Yeezy Season 1 had Beyoncé front row. Ye bowed in a plain hoodie.

Nine rows of five. That’s how Complex’s Jian DeLeon counted the models at Skylight Clarkson Sq on 12 Feb 2015. They stood dead still while a recording of Ye’s voice talked about how “awesome is possible”. When the last song ended, Ye walked out and stood in the rows with them. Grazia called the bow “humble (and very brief)”. He wore a dark hoodie with no logo on it.

It was the first collection of his adidas deal, and adidas ran it like a premiere. The show was screened live in cinemas around the world. Anna Wintour, Beyoncé, Jay Z and Kim Kardashian sat front row. The invites were Tyvek anoraks, and they’d been teased for a week on a new site called yeezy.supply.

Vanessa Beecroft and an army of kids

Ye built it with Vanessa Beecroft, who’d worked on his Yeezus tour. Backstage he told WWD the idea came out of the London riots of 2011.

“I wanted to have an army of kids.”

Ye, to WWD

So it looked like one. Hypebeast listed military fatigues, shield vests, distressed knits and flowing jackets, and WWD saw nude body stockings under bomber jackets and a shearling coat. North West didn’t make it to the end: she cried through the first half and was carried backstage. The second half debuted “Wolves”, with Vic Mensa and Sia.

The 350 walked before anyone had heard of it

Ian Connor came out in an oversized grey sweater and a duck boot. Luka Sabbat had his trousers hiked to the knee, which Complex read as a way to show off a knit Yeezy Boost low-top. That low-top became the 350, and Hypebeast’s photos from the floor have it in Turtle Dove and in black, walking next to the 750 Boost. Turtle Dove wouldn’t go on sale until that June.

Two days early, backstage

Getty’s Dimitrios Kambouris caught Ye backstage with Kim Kardashian and Anna Wintour. Same hoodie, black trousers, and the 750 Boost on his feet. It’d go on sale two days later, on 14 Feb 2015, the first adidas Yeezy anyone could buy.

The hoodie he bowed in never got a name. Two weeks later, outside Abbey Road Studios in London, Ye was wearing one of the Season 1 sweaters instead.